The Ultimate Guide to Jewelry Metals: Everything You Need to Know about Gold & Silver Alternatives

 

When shopping for jewelry, you’ve probably noticed terms like “gold-filled,” “gold-plated,” “sterling silver,” or even “stainless steel.” But what do they actually mean?

 Understanding the differences between these metals when you are shopping for alternative & affordable jewelry can help you make informed decisions about durability, cost, and maintenance.

In this guide, we break down the most common types of metals used in jewelry so you can shop smarter!

Gold Jewelry: Solid Gold vs. Alternatives

Gold is one of the most coveted metals in jewelry due to its luxurious appeal and resistance to tarnishing. However, not all gold jewelry is created equal. Here’s a breakdown of the different types:

1. Solid Gold

Solid gold jewelry is made entirely of gold, often mixed with other metals for durability. Gold is a soft metal, so it is alloyed with metals like copper or silver to improve its strength. The purity of gold is measured in karats (K):

• 24K Gold – Pure gold (99.9%) but very soft and prone to scratches.

• 18K Gold – 75% gold and 25% other metals; more durable yet still luxurious.

• 14K Gold – 58.3% gold; a popular choice for everyday jewelry due to its balance of durability and gold content.

• 10K Gold – 41.7% gold; the most durable but contains less pure gold.

Solid gold is a great investment but can be expensive compared to alternatives. All jewelry that is pure gold, should be label as-is per standard procedure or have some sort of certificate of authenticity. 

2. Gold-Filled Jewelry

See the values of Brass here.

Gold-filled jewelry consists of a thick layer of solid gold (at least 5% of total weight) mechanically bonded to a base metal (such as brass) through heat and pressure. It is much more durable than gold-plated jewelry and can last for years. Usually is water-resistant, non-tarnishing and hypoallergenic. There is also gold-filled stainless steel that is waterproof and doesn't tarnish. 

Gold-Filled jewelry is typically a lighter golden color compared to the darker gold-plated shade. It serves as an excellent alternative to pure gold for necklace and bracelet chains exposed daily to water, air, hair products, perfume, and other chemicals.

SHOP GOLD-FILLED NECKLACES HERE

3. Gold-Plated Jewelry

Gold-plated jewelry has a thin layer of gold electroplated over a base metal (usually Copper), making it the most affordable option. However, the gold layer is very thin (often less than 0.05% of total weight), meaning it can fade and wear off quickly, especially with daily wear. It is prone to tarnish; it is no water-resistant and, in some cases, can cause skin allergies. 

18K Gold-plated (GP) often are a good affordable option for charms, crimps or findings to be used in jewelry making, but be aware of the so called "waterproof" jewelry, often it is gold-plated jewelry which in 1-2 years will still tarnish, especially if you wear it to the beach. In other cases, the gold-plated with metal base stainless steel tends to last longer since stainless steel is waterproof, non-tarnish and does not rust. 

Gold-plating over metal is an unsuitable choice for chains as it may discolor, releasing a chemical substance (typically green or blue) that could cause a skin allergy. 

Furthermore, storing gold-plated items with other materials like silver jewelry can speed up the tarnishing process. To maintain the longevity of your gold-plated jewelry, store them in an air-sealed bag.

4. Gold Vermeil (Pronounced “ver-may”)

Gold vermeil is similar to gold-plated jewelry but uses sterling silver as the base metal and requires a thicker gold layer (at least 2.5 microns thick based on US standards). This makes it more durable than regular gold-plated jewelry while being more affordable than solid gold.

Gold-Vermeil (GV) is usually 3rd in line after Pure Gold and Gold-Filled because it is more durable than gold-plated but over time it will tarnish with extensive use or left outside to oxide since it just a thicker plating layer than gold-plated, but it is not bonded to the metal. Usually, it last around 2 years of daily use until it starts to decolorate, but it less prone to skin allergies since the base metal is sterling silver. 

 

At least on our shop, we don't use gold-vermeil or gold-plated for jewelry making. Our most preferred material to use is Gold-Filled as we (my mom and I) have allergic reaction to any gold-plated that has contact specifically with earrings. But let's talk now about the other side of the coin and do a quick dive into silver!

 

Silver Jewelry: Sterling Silver vs. Silver Alternatives

Silver jewelry has a timeless elegance, but there are different types to consider when making a purchase.

1. Sterling Silver (925 Silver)

Sterling silver is made of 92.5% pure silver and 7.5% other metals (usually copper) to increase durability. It is one of the most common types of silver jewelry and is often stamped with “925” to indicate its purity and considered a premium metal. Sterling silver is prone to tarnishing but can easily be cleaned and polished. In contract to stainless teel, sterling silver has a lighter and vivid metal color. 

2. Fine Silver (.999 Silver)

Fine silver, often referred to as .999 silver, is the purest form of silver used in jewelry and metalwork. It contains 99.9% pure silver, with only 0.1% trace elements, making it one of the most precious and lustrous metals available. Unlike sterling silver, which is alloyed with other metals (usually copper) to improve strength, fine silver remains nearly pure, offering unique characteristics and considerations.

Pure Silver is mostly popular for luxury jewelry and for artisans because of it values:

✔ Hypoallergenic: Due to its purity, fine silver is a great choice for individuals with metal allergies or sensitive skin, as it does not contain common allergens like nickel or copper.

✔ Bright White Luster: Fine silver has a radiant, almost white appearance that is shinier and more reflective than sterling silver.

✔ Soft and Malleable: One of the biggest drawbacks of fine silver is its softness, making it more prone to scratches, dents, and bending. This is why it is less commonly used for everyday jewelry like rings and bracelets. But it is a great material to create intricate designs.

✔ Tarnish-Resistant: While fine silver does develop a patina over time, it tarnishes much more slowly than sterling silver due to the absence of copper.

✔ More Expensive than Sterling Silver: Because of its higher silver content, fine silver jewelry is often priced higher than sterling silver.

3. Silver-Filled Jewelry

Silver-filled jewelry is an affordable alternative to solid sterling silver, offering durability and a high silver content at a lower cost. Unlike silver-plated jewelry, which has only a thin electroplated layer of silver, silver-filled jewelry contains a significantly thicker layer of sterling silver bonded to a base metal, usually brass or copper.

Since it has a significant amount of real silver, silver-filled jewelry resists tarnishing better than silver-plated pieces, though it may still require occasional polishing. And, because of its thicker silver coating, silver-filled jewelry won’t wear away as quickly as silver-plated jewelry, ensuring it maintains its shine and beauty over time.

4. Silver-Plated Jewelry

Silver-plated jewelry is an even more budget-friendly alternative to sterling and silver-filled jewelry. Unlike silver-filled jewelry, which has a thick layer of silver bonded to a base metal, silver-plated jewelry has only a very thin layer of silver applied through electroplating.

The silver coating is extremely thin (often less than 1% of the total metal weight), which means it can wear off over time, exposing the base metal underneath. Therefore, it is more susceptible to tarnishing, fading, and chipping with frequent use. Silver-plated pieces may need re-plating after extended wear to maintain their appearance.

While silver-plated jewelry offers a beautiful silver appearance at a fraction of the cost, it requires careful handling to preserve its shine and prevent premature wear. It is best suited for occasional wear rather than daily use.

Stainless Steel Jewelry: The Underrated Alternative

Stainless steel is a highly durable and affordable metal choice for jewelry, offering a modern and sleek aesthetic. It is made primarily of iron, carbon, and chromium, with additional elements such as nickel and molybdenum depending on the grade. The key component, chromium (at least 10.5%), forms a protective oxide layer that makes stainless steel resistant to rust and corrosion.

Stainless steel is incredibly strong and resistant to scratching, making it ideal for everyday wear. The chromium content in stainless steel creates a protective layer that prevents rust, tarnish, and corrosion.

While some stainless-steel alloys contain nickel, hypoallergenic grades such as 316L surgical stainless steel are safe for sensitive skin.

Stainless steel is an economical choice that sustains its luster without frequent polishing, and offers a variety of finishes including polished, brushed, and matte, suitable for a range of styles.

It can be use in jewelry for: 

• Men’s and Women’s Rings: Its strength makes it perfect for wedding bands and statement rings.

• Bracelets and Chains: Stainless steel chains and bracelets are popular for their modern look and resilience.

• Body Jewelry: Due to its hypoallergenic properties, surgical-grade stainless steel is commonly used for piercings.

• Watches and Accessories: Many luxury and fashion watch brands utilize stainless steel for its sleek, long-lasting finish.

The durability of stainless steel ensures that your jewelry will remain looking as beautiful as the day you bought it, no matter where you wear it. And therefore, it is our preferred silver metal to use at our shop since it aligns with our vision. Of course, .925 Sterling Silver is a valuable metal to integrate it with stainless steel to provide a wider range of quality and silver coloring. 

Metals to Avoid in Jewelry and Why

Not all metals are suitable for jewelry, especially if you're concerned about durability, allergies, or long-term wear. Here are some metals that you should generally avoid having a direct contact with:

1. Nickel

Nickel is commonly used in costume jewelry, especially in alloys to give metal a shiny finish or to make it more durable. It’s found in many jewelry pieces such as earrings, necklaces, bracelets, and rings.

Nickel is one of the most common allergens in jewelry. Nickel dermatitis (a rash or irritation) is a common skin reaction to nickel exposure, especially when the metal comes into direct contact with the skin. In some individuals, the reaction can cause severe itching, redness, and swelling.

 When making jewelry, you can avoid nickel by using nickel-free alloys or opting for stainless steel, silver, or gold—all of which are less likely to cause reactions. If you're using nickel in your jewelry, be sure to coat it with a protective layer, like clear lacquer, to reduce skin contact.

If you're sensitive to nickel, choose jewelry labeled as nickel-free. Avoid pieces that contain inexpensive alloys, as they often have higher nickel content.

2. Cadmium

Cadmium is sometimes used in metal alloys and solders for jewelry, although its use has been limited due to safety concerns. It is sometimes found in certain colored jewelry items, especially in vintage or cheaper pieces.

Cadmium is highly toxic and can accumulate in the body over time, potentially causing kidney damage, bone loss, and other serious health issues. Jewelry containing cadmium can release small amounts of this toxic metal, especially when worn for extended periods or exposed to heat.

 Look for cadmium-free jewelry or check for certifications regarding safe materials.

3. Chromium

Chromium is often used in metal plating, especially in chrome-plated jewelry, which can give pieces a shiny finish. It is also used to color some gemstones, and jewelry made with chromium alloys may contain the metal.

Chromium VI (hexavalent chromium) is a carcinogen and is linked to lung cancer, as well as skin irritation and respiratory issues. Prolonged exposure can also lead to damage to internal organs like the liver and kidneys.

If you have any concerns about exposure to chromium, opt for non-plated jewelry or pieces made from metals like sterling silver, gold, or platinum that don't contain chromium in their composition.

4. Lead

Lead has been historically used in jewelry for its weight and malleability, especially in glass beads, ceramic jewelry, and certain alloys. It’s also found in lead-based enamels and paints used to color jewelry.

Lead poisoning is a major health concern, especially for children. Exposure to lead through jewelry can cause developmental delays, cognitive impairments, and various other health issues. Lead exposure can also be toxic to adults, causing high blood pressure, kidney damage, and reproductive problems.

Look for jewelry that is specifically labeled as lead-free, especially for children’s jewelry or vintage pieces that may contain lead. Avoid cheap costume jewelry that may contain lead in the metal alloys or paint.

Since 2011, California law (as found in Health and Safety Code section 25258) prohibits the manufacturing, selling, offering for sale, or offering for promotional purposes glass beads that contain more than 100 parts per million (ppm) of lead by weight if the beads will be used with pressure, suction or wet- or dry-type blasting equipment. 

 

-source: Lead and Arsenic in Glass Beads | Department of Toxic Substances Control

By being mindful of the materials you use and wear, you can avoid the harmful effects of these metals while enjoying jewelry safely.

Some of the metal alternatives discussed here like gold-filled, silver-filled, gold-plated and silver-plated can contain a percent of brass, nickel or copper, but since they are plated or bonded with pure metals like gold and silver, they don't necessarily have a direct contact with the body unless they tarnish, which with electroplating can happen usually under a year of wearing gold-plated or silver-plated jewelry. While with gold-filled or silver-filled jewelry, it can happen probably in like 5 years or more. 

Choosing the Right Metal for Your Jewelry

When deciding on jewelry metal, consider these factors:

🔹 Budget: Solid gold and sterling silver are higher-end investments, while gold-filled, silver-filled, and stainless-steel offer budget-friendly alternatives.

🔹 Durability: If you want jewelry that lasts, opt for gold-filled, sterling silver, or stainless steel over plated options.

🔹 Skin Sensitivity: If you have sensitive skin, choose sterling silver, gold-filled, or stainless steel to avoid allergic reactions.

🔹 Maintenance: Silver requires regular polishing, while stainless steel and gold-filled jewelry are lower maintenance.

OUR PROMISE

At Relato. Jewelry, we believe that jewelry should be both beautiful and enduring. That’s why we offer alternative affordable and high-quality materials that ensure your pieces remain stunning for years to come. Whether you prefer the affordability of gold-filled jewelry or the durability of stainless steel, we have a collection that suits your needs.

Every piece from Relato. Jewelry is thoughtfully crafted with precision and passion, ensuring you receive jewelry that is both stylish and long-lasting. Shop with confidence, knowing that you’re investing in pieces designed to elevate your everyday style.

Explore our collection at Relato Jewelry and find the perfect piece that resonates with you! 💍✨